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Michigan lawyer evelyn L. Sullen has a closet full of beautiful clothes. She estimates she has more than 15 suits, 30-40 shirts and about 10 pairs of dress pants—all purchased from upscale department stores, shops and boutiques. She tries to stay true to what she describes as her signature style, “conservative but with flair,” she says. In keeping with this theme, she pulls together most outfits with a classic set of pearls.


If there’s a method to dressing to the nines, Sullen has it figured out. This fashion arrangement was a perfect fit for the conservative law firm environment. Only problem: She’s no longer at a law firm.

A few months ago, Sullen joined the general counsel’s office at Volkswagen of America Inc., entering an environment where khakis are OK, pantyhose are optional, and a business suit might spark speculation that you’re interviewing for another job. Since the classic biz-casual combo of khakis and a polo isn’t her thing, Sullen says she’s resorted to favoring separates over suits, which means a lot of button-down, long-sleeved, pressed cotton oxford shirts with pressed pants and nice loafers. It works with the “conservative” part of her fashion philosophy, but it falls short of the “but with flair” part.

It’s also a lot harder to pull off each and every day. “It’s just so easy to grab a suit,” she says. “Now I am spending so much time trying to figure out what are appropriate separates to wear.”

Additionally, Sullen wouldn’t mind getting a promotion or two. So she feels a certain compulsion to follow the age-old rule of dressing for the job you want rather than the job you have.

Which leads to Sullen’s dilemma: How can she work with the wardrobe she has to create a style that’s relaxed yet still professional?

This is how she sums it up: “I am not in a stuffy environment, so I guess I want to be less stuffy.” The first step in crafting a signature style—whether it’s business formal, business casual or all-day aloha shirts —is to think outside the wardrobe, says Life Audit image expert Lisa Scherrer Dugan. “One of the things we need to do as we get intentional about our career is to get intentional about the image we want to project,” she says. “If you are not clear who you are, it’s hard to project that image. There is a disconnect between the internal and external packages.”

Instead of considering her clothes only in the morning as she readies for work, Dugan suggests that Sullen devote quality time to devising a wardrobe strategy. She should think about the people she meets, the people in her office and those in positions to influence her career. Then she should ask herself two questions: “How do I want to be perceived by them?” and “What do I need to look like to support that perception?”

Often, cues can be taken from the corporate image that the company or law firm is projecting, says Dugan. For example, Volkswagen is fun, kicky and contemporary, so a more contemporary, creative look—think square-framed glasses or unconstructed suits—could work well in its offices.

“This strategy will make you feel more in control; it eliminates the feeling that you need to wear something just because others are wearing it,” Dugan says. It will also keep Sullen from falling victim to spending just because something’s on sale. Sullen admits she gets a rush from getting a good deal. “If it doesn’t fit the bill you’ve written for yourself, you’ll know not to buy it,” Dugan says.

Once Sullen has an idea of the style she wants to project, she can get down to the specifics. The first—and easiest—change Sullen can make to shed the stuffiness would be to lose the pearls, at least as an everyday accessory.

“Pearls make everything more conservative,” says Du­gan. “She should save them for outfits and occasions that require pearls. But not for every day, especially not for someone who’s only 34.”

A popular alternative is a colorful scarf, but Dugan warns that this could cause more problems than it solves. “A lot of people tend to tamper with them,” she says. And every time you tug at it or retie it, she warns, “It becomes more like a nervous gesture than an accessory.”

Instead, Dugan suggests looking into more modern pieces, such as the gold and silver rope-like necklaces popularized by jewelry designer David Yurman. Sullen can also change her style by changing the type of shirt she wears. A high quality silk or cotton-blend T-shirt can give a suit a more casual look. And a pressed cotton shirt with a 3⁄4-length sleeve retains the crisp, clean look of a button-down oxford without the stuffiness.

Another easy change that makes a big impact is eyewear. Glasses should be updated every year but never longer than every two years, Dugan says. And contact-lens wearers should think periodically about whether wearing glasses would be better suited to their face—and their signature style.

For example, heavy plastic frames can give you an instant edgy, contemporary look, while wire rims might add an academic flair. “It’s really amazing how much of a transformation you can make,” Dugan says.

But Dugan says one of the best accessories for any style is self-confidence. “If you don’t have the confidence, it doesn’t matter how you look,” she says. “Know­ing the image you want to project about yourself will help fuel your confidence.”

Our Expert

Lisa Scherrer Dugan Lisa Scherrer Dugan is executive vice president, senior consultant and executive coach for Professional Image, an Atlanta-based corporate image consulting firm. She is the co-author of Take Action! 18 Proven Strategies for Advancing in Today’s Changing Business World and 5 Steps to Professional Presence: How to Project Confidence, Competence and Credibility at Work. vital statistics Evelyn L. Sullen PRACTICE One of eight in-house lawyers with Volkswagen of America Inc., Auburn Hills, Mich.

PRACTICE AREA Product and regulatory affairs.

Age 34.

Goal To add a relaxed, yet professional flair to her conservative law firm wardrobe.

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Game Plan SHOOTING FOR FLAIR HAS Lots of clothes Conservative suits Pearl necklace Button-down oxfords NEEDS

A new wardrobe strategy that unifies all the pieces and simplifies dressing and shopping To dress down suits by exchanging the usual blouse for a silk T-shirt More contemporary pieces like the silver and gold necklaces by jewelry designer David Yurman

Looser look by shortening the sleeve to 3⁄4 length

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