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How Sweet It Is: Lawyer builds a business around her award-winning chocolate

By Jenny B. Davis

August 1, 2024, 1:20 am CDT

In a criminal trial, there’s always the possibility of a sweet deal. And some of the sweetest have come from the Dane County Courthouse in Madison, Wisconsin, thanks to Syovata Edari and her delicious chocolate truffles.

Edari developed her dessert-making skills as a creative outlet while meeting the daily demands of her legal career. She started handing out her homemade chocolate truffles to colleagues in the hopes of generating referrals. Soon, everyone working at the courthouse was clamoring to buy them. Today Edari is the owner of CocoVaa Chocolatier, selling online and through a brick-and-mortar shop in Madison. In January, she was named a James Beard Awards semifinalist, and in June, she was planning to purchase a building to expand CocoVaa’s retail and production.

Do you encounter people who are surprised you left law to become a chocolatier?

I used to. I realized the value of my work to others after I started receiving significant recognition. These accolades made others see the quality of my efforts, but honestly, my product’s quality has always been the same. Recognition shouldn’t be the measure of success. We need to redefine success to focus more on the impact of our work and less on superficial achievements like accumulating wealth or fame. To me, success is about engaging in work that is meaningful personally, supports my family and contributes value to the community. Chasing accolades for the sake of recognition is less satisfying than creating a space to do what you love.

You practiced full-time criminal defense law for 15 years, and it looks like there was some career overlap. How and when did you discover your passion for chocolate?

My passion for chocolate has always paralleled my legal career, serving as a creative outlet throughout my 15 years as a full-time criminal defense attorney. But my earliest memory is as a child discovering dark chocolate. While working in the public defender’s office in Milwaukee, I went through various culinary phases, from ice cream to cakes, but chocolate consistently emerged as my favorite.

Did it also serve as a stress reliever of sorts?

Yes, particularly when I relocated to Kansas in 2009 to work as an assistant federal defender. As a single mother of two, I closed my law practice in Milwaukee and moved, hoping for a better opportunity. I was the first nonwhite employee in that federal defender office, and it was a significant shift for me. Unfortunately, I faced a really hostile work environment. Additionally, I learned that the federal judiciary is exempt from the Civil Rights Act and uses a limited internal complaint process that offers few remedies and little due process.

After struggling there for three years and experiencing considerable burnout, I still managed to build a strong local network that later supported my chocolate business. I would host potlucks at my home where supportive colleagues and local food enthusiasts gathered. I became known for my desserts, and during one dinner, I tried my hand at making saffron-infused chocolate truffles using a chocolate mold for the first time. Everyone loved it—and, in hindsight, it planted a seed in my mind of other possibilities beyond working for bad bosses.

That’s a very specific truffle flavor. How did you come up with this idea?

My stepfather is Iranian, and growing up, I loved the saffron chicken and rice dish he often made. During a particularly tough time in Kansas, I found myself craving saffron. I started experimenting with it in various forms—incorporating it into cakes, ice cream and even martinis. Curious about why I was drawn to it, I researched saffron’s properties and discovered it has strong antidepressant effects, which resonated with me, as I was feeling quite depressed at the time.

Being passionate about chocolate, I decided to combine the two interests, which led me to create saffron-infused chocolate truffles. My approach to recipe development is very scientific; I meticulously research every ingredient to understand its impact, not just on taste but on mood and well-being.

Was it an instant success?

No. My initial attempt at a saffron-infused dark chocolate truffle didn’t bring out the saffron flavor as I had hoped. I experimented with milk chocolate next, but still, the saffron was too subtle. It wasn’t until I tried white chocolate that the flavor truly shone through—it took on a vibrant yellow hue that was visually striking. I used this mixture to fill chocolate molds and refrigerated them. When I removed them from the molds, they were stunning.

I debuted these truffles at a party, and the response was overwhelmingly positive. People admired their beauty and taste, suggesting I should sell them. It’s funny how a casual compliment can lead to a whole new business venture—that’s exactly what happened to me. I never envisioned turning my passion for chocolate into a business; I simply wanted to create beautiful, delicious treats to share with others.

How did you decide to make the leap into entrepreneurship?

Around the time I moved back to Wisconsin, I began dating someone I met online, a relationship that unfortunately turned out to be very abusive. Concurrently, I was attempting to establish my own legal practice. Despite my federal experience and a successful track record, the saturated market in Madison made it difficult to secure referrals, forcing me to travel extensively across the state for cases.

This challenging period highlighted what I wanted my business to symbolize: freedom from abusive bosses, harmful relationships and the ability to control my own destiny. It was 2013, and during these tough times, the kitchen became my sanctuary. In making chocolate, there were no severe repercussions like there were in law; it was a release from all the pressures of my life. This is why it’s so important to pursue work that’s meaningful, that you never want to escape from.

At that point, you were just giving the chocolate away, right?

Yes, to help generate referrals. It became a bit of a courtroom spectacle—judges would call recesses, and everyone would gather around my briefcase eager for a sample. Eventually, law firms in Milwaukee began purchasing my chocolates, sparking a wider interest. Realizing the potential, I decided to approach this venture more formally.

I found a commercial kitchen and enrolled in an online culinary course to ensure I was up to standard. While I continued to practice law, chocolate-making started as an expensive hobby that gradually began covering some expenses—it helped pay bills and even funded a family vacation that we would not have been able to otherwise afford. Most importantly, it helped me become financially independent from the abusive relationship I was in.

Recognizing the potential, I traveled to France and Italy to receive professional training, which was a transformative experience. After a week in Paris visiting every chocolatier I could, I was inspired to replicate the craft back home.

In 2016, I launched my chocolate company, CocoVaa. By 2018, I was ready to expand, signing a lease for what is now my shop. Facing financing challenges, I cashed out my retirement and savings and, acting as my own general contractor, I built one of the most beautiful retail spaces in my city.

That must have been scary.

Yes, it was incredibly daunting. By that stage, I felt completely committed and saw no way to turn back. Before making the final decision to sign the lease, I sought advice from Pleasant Rowland, the founder of American Girl, who herself was a successful entrepreneur. I expressed my fears to her, likening my decision to standing on a cliff’s edge. Her response was decisive: “Jump. Just jump. You can always go back to being a lawyer if you need to—it will always be there. But if you don’t do this now, you’ll always wonder what could have been.” Encouraged by her words, I went ahead and signed the lease.

Has CocoVaa given you the work-life control that you wanted?

Yes, and even more crucially, CocoVaa has provided me with meaningful work I can share globally and—most important—with my kids.

Back in 2018, I won 17 Academy of Chocolate awards, including two gold medals, and was invited to a prestigious event at Claridge’s hotel in London. I took my children with me to share in the celebration. They’ve been part of this journey from the beginning—folding boxes, packing chocolates and setting up pop-up shops. It was crucial for them to witness the tangible outcomes of our collective effort and enjoy the rewards of our chocolate venture. This returns to my emphasis on pursuing work that is meaningful.

As a chocolatier, I earn significantly less than I did as a lawyer—about a quarter to a third of my previous salary. However, the trade-off is worth it because it allows me the freedom to travel with my children, engage with diverse communities and experience life in ways that would have been impossible in my previous career.

Which I imagine underscores the importance of expanding into your own building.

To me, success means creating a lasting career and brand that outlives me and provides opportunities for others. Purchasing a building is a significant step toward achieving this goal.

This story was originally published in the August-September 2024 issue of the ABA Journal under the headline: “How Sweet It Is: After ending a bad work experience and personal relationship, lawyer builds a business around her award-winning chocolate.”

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Jenny B. Davis is a journalism professor at Southern Methodist University, a fashion stylist and former practicing attorney. Her most recent book is Style Wise, a guide for aspiring fashion stylists.